Afon Mawddach

Today is another moving day. We have had an enjoyable stay at Rhydhalen Farm CL, a well-kept site in a quiet location with easy access for dog walking, so it ticks the boxes for us. Our next stop is a bit further north at Abergwynant Farm, just outside of Dolgellau.

A couple of weeks ago whilst having a pint in Bessie’s one of the locals said how stunning the mountains were as you travelled north, therefore, we had been warned, but the scenery still surprised us. Wow! Everywhere you look there are substantial lumps of rock split by stunning valleys.

We arrive at our site and find that we have a fantastic view of Cadair Idris, this peak is on my to do list, but it will be tricky because of the precipitous drops. We get a warm welcome from the site owner Mrs Jones and she tells me the best route up Cadair Idris and shares a bit of local history.


After setting up we decide to make the most of the sunny evening and take a stroll down to the Afon Mawddach estuary. Whilst commuting by train last year I watched Julia Bradbury walk the Mawddach Trail form Dolgellau to Barmouth and the scenery was fantastic. From our site we walk along the banks of the River Gwynant through Abergwynant Woods. An attractive walk in itself but when we reach the estuary we are blown away. What a place.


The tide is out and the mud banks dominate the scene directly in front of us but the backdrop is mountains covered in mixed woodland. We turn right toward Dolgellau and have a cracking walk for just short of a couple of miles along the Trail path. After a while we turn around to look behind us and are treated to a fantastic view of the bridge across the estuary to Barmouth. We make a plan to cross this bridge tomorrow.

We reach the George III Hotel overlooking Penmaenpool Toll Bridge. It is time for a pint and a stop to take in the tranquil view. So with an excellent pint of Snowdonia Ale in hand we watch the sunset and cast ever changing shadows over the river. This has to be one of the top spots we have visited on our travels.


Penmaenpool Toll Bridge is a wooden structure built in 1879 to replace a ferry crossing. Unfortunately, on 22nd July 1966, the Prince of Wales ferry was taking 39 people on a pleasure cruise from Barmouth to the George III. The ferry hit the toll bridge and fifteen people including four children were drowned. Rather sobering to think about this on such a beautiful evening.

We set off again in the gathering dusk and by the time we get back to Abergwynant Woods I am grateful for the torch app on my phone. We arrive safely at the van and whilst Lynnie prepares a meal I settle over the map and plan some walking!

(2nd September 2014)

[To follow our walk you will need Ordnance Survey Outdoor Leisure Map OL 23 –Cadair Idris & Llyn Tegid]

© Two Dogs and an Awning (2014)


  1. Trudie

    Looks and sounds a stunning place.

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