Wayfarer’s Walk – Day 4 – Soberton to Emsworth

I find walking long distance trails very therapeutic. There is something about the solitude that brings a closer connection to the countryside.  Don’t get me wrong I also enjoy walking with others, but when on my own I can go at my own pace.  

The only downside is spending evenings on my own, back in the day I regularly worked  away from home, I have eaten far too many meals without company.  The bonus of walking the Wayfarer’s Walk is it passes close to the home of my mate Andy who is  my “Web Wizard” providing all the technical support for this blog.  

After an evening with Andy in the White Lion with all the right attributes, good food and ale plus excellent company I am ready to tackle the final stretch of this long distance path.  After a hearty breakfast I leave the White Lion and walk south through the village to reach a crossroads beside the village hall.  Here I go straight over on the route to Hoe Cross, Hambledon and Denmead.

After 100 metres on the road I take a waymarked track on the left which takes me up onto Soberton Down.

The route crosses fields towards woodland and a crossing of paths where I head straight over heading east.

After passing Shere Copse I head towards a minor road, East Hoe Road where I cross and go through an old metal kissing gate and pass East Hoe Manor.

Going into another field I pass a pond and then fork left and descend to woodland which leads into Hambledon where I cross a ‘B’ road and pass houses to follow a track heading towards the church of St Peter and St Paul.

After going through the churchyard I descend into the village down the High Street.

Turning left into East Street I soon go right into Speltham Hill, just as the road turns left I go through a metal kissing gate to enter Speltham Down and turn left to head steeply uphill.  As the path levels it continues beside a horse paddock.

After crossing a minor road I continue around fields on Rushmere Farm towards Rushmere Lane.  This farm has signs about the work they are doing to help nature conservation.  

At Rushmere Lane I turn right and then after fifty metres I turn left and walk around field margins before crossing a field to reach a lane.

Turning right along the lane I soon come to a junction and turn left and then take a path on the right crossing farmland heading towards Denmead.

After three days of walking through open countryside with the occasional village it feels odd to be in a more populated environment. I follow the waymarkers to reach Hambledon Road where I turn left and then just before an arcade of shops turn right into Ashling Park Road and follow this to the end and then keep going straight on through a recreation area and continue following the waymarkers to Forest Road.  Here I turn left and then soon turn right into Furzeley Road.  After 100 metres I reach a footpath on the left beside Furzeley Golf Club and the Denmead driving range.

The path goes down a track and then by a couple of holes on the golf course.

Leaving the course I head across fields, it feels good to be out in the countryside again.  I know this is only a temporary respite because my route is due to become more urbanised as I head south.

On reaching Closewood Road I turn right.  In the far distance I can see Portsdown Technology Park which is the headquarters of the National Maritime Systems Centre which provides  support to the Royal Navy.

I soon reach a junction with Newlands Lane, I turn left and follow this lane for 200 metres to reach Closewood Farm.  Going over a stile I pass farm buildings.

After crossing another stile at the end of the farm buildings I head across fields towards Sheepwash Lane.

At the lane I turn right and then within fifty metres leave the lane to go through a kissing gate on the left and follow a track towards Short’s Coppice.

After crossing a field of pasture I reach a newly constructed forestry track in Newlandsmoor Coppice and continue heading south through the woodland,

The track leads to Purbrook Heath Road where I turn left and follow this lane eastward.  This is a single track lane, but the margins are wide enough to provide space when the occasional vehicle comes along.  I am still relieved to reach a pavement as I near the entrance to Purbrook Heath House.  I stay with this pavement until I reach some tennis courts on my right, here I turn right and follow a track to pass a recreation ground which is an ideal spot to stop on one the many benches for a lunch break.

Resuming my walk I continue heading south down the lane passing cottages and then at the end keep going straight on into a nature reserve and cross a footbridge.

The path leads through Sandy Coppice and then goes behind properties.  Sadly this section of path is somewhat overgrown and it takes a while to beat back nettles and brambles with my walking poles.  

It is surprising this section of path is so neglected, the Wayfarer’s Walk is promoted by Hampshire Council so you would expect them to ensure it is well maintained. 

It is with some relief and the odd scratch that I reach a tarmac lane and follow this uphill to reach Portsdown Hill Road.  Here I turn left on the pavement and walk beside this busy road soon passing The George Inn.

Apparently this Grade II listed 18th century pub was once two cottages that also housed the Widley Fire Station.  It is situated on a busy junction and at one time had a policeman permanently located there to direct traffic.  It was also a tram stop on the now long gone Portsdown and Harden Light Railway.

It is a warm afternoon and it is tempting to stop for a pint but I have a prearranged visit with a trig point at Fort Purbrook which is a bit further along the road so I press on and have to be satisfied with a swig of water.

Five hundred metres after passing the pub I leave the pavement and fork left on a tarmac lane that leads to Fort Purbrook.  Today it is an activity centre running a range of sports for young people.  Visitors access is by appointment only and I have prearranged with the office to be accompanied so that I can bag the Ordnance Survey trig pillar that sits within the fort.

My contact at the Fort’s office has been with Sarah.  She warmly greets me and takes me  the safest route to the trig which sits on a steep embankment.  This is the 438th trig I have bagged.

The flush bracket is on the west side of the trig on the edge of the steep embankment so rather than risk falling I have to content myself with taking a picture from below.

This fort was built in the 1860’s as one of a series of forts along this hill defending Portsmouth Dockyard.  During World War I it was armed with an 18 pounder heavy anti-aircraft gun.  Then in World War II it was used as a Home Guard headquarters and ambulance centre.  From 1947 to 1968 it was used as a Royal Navy navigational school before changing to its current use as an activity centre.

It is an interesting building and Sarah proves a great guide and suggests I return on one of the open days when it is possible to explore the site in more depth.

Leaving the site I walk down the main entrance driveway to rejoin the busy B2177 and continue eastward. This is a long tedious section beside the main road on a hot afternoon.  After 1 km I cross the A3(M) and continue along the road for a further 500 metres to reach a junction with the B2150 and B2149.  Here I go under a wooden entrance into Bidbury Mead recreation ground.

After passing playing fields I keep going south and join Bidbury Lane where I turn right and then very quickly take a left into Mill Lane and follow this to cross the railway line.  At the far end of the bridge I take a footpath on the right which doubles back towards the railway.

Under an arch the path continues parallel to the railway heading east on a fenced path.

After crossing a weir I turn right at a junction of paths and head across neglected fields towards an industrial estate.  

In the estate the map shows a footpath, but despite a couple of attempts I could not locate it so instead take the road out of the estate and then at a roundabout I turn right on to Brockhampton Way and go over a bridge crossing the A27.  On the far side of the bridge I turn right into Harts Farm Way and then just after crossing a stream I follow the Wayfarer’s Walk waymarker to the left along a path beside the stream.

Crossing the stream I spot an old plaque which indicates that this is the location of Brockhampton Mill.  A mill was first recorded in the Doomsday Book and the site retained a mill until the early 1900’s when the mill was then the largest in the Havant area.

The tidal basin here was bricked to allow passages of barges carrying corn and meal to Langstone and Chichester harbour.

Staying with the path I have the ugly site of a large sewage works to my left and moorings on the right.

It is not too long before I reach the water front at Langstone Harbour.

Turning left along the shoreline there are fine views across the harbour.

At a junction of paths there is a notice suggesting my planned route is not passable due to erosion in recent storms.  However a dog walker coming towards me says that as it is low tide I can easily follow the route without problem.

The path goes around the nature reserve on South Moor and sure enough I have no problems navigating the water inlet that has been damaged by the storms.  Here another dog walker advises me of the route to take.  As it turns out the route is well waymarked and I cross a stream and then join a lane heading into Langstone.

The route is now well marked as it follows paths to the A3023 after crossing the road I head along Langstone High Street towards the waterside.

I pass the Royal Oak pub which is busy with customers sat outside enjoying the afternoon sunshine and then reach Langstone Mill.  The old windmill here was built around 1730 and the attached mill buildings in the early 1800’s.  It was used as a working mill until World War I. 

The path now goes along the shore front.  It is a cracking spot to walk on a sunny afternoon.

I reach a point where there is no further access along the shore line, here I turn inland and then follow a path through a churchyard heading east.  Then I go along a path, Church Path, which heads east towards Emsworth.

This path leads me back to the shoreline where there are more stunning views.

The route now goes into Emsworth via the harbour.  

Heading into Emsworth I seek a marker showing I am at the end of the Wayfarer’s Walk but there is nothing obvious so make a few enquiries amongst the locals, nobody appears to have a clue and the suggestions are so varied I decide that the fact that I’m in the centre of Emsworth is good enough.  

It was my intention to steel down for a pint and then catch a train back to Salisbury, however I have arrived close to the departure time of a train so decide to go to the station and make my way back home.

On the train home I have time to reflect on the last four days walking this long distance path.  Today I have covered 18 miles, added to my three previous days it means  I have walked 78 miles in the last four days.  It has been a walk of contrasting countryside.  Starting high on the downs I had three and a bit days walking in open countryside and then a big chunk of today has been urban, but to finish off there has been a stunning section along the shoreline into Emsworth.

Despite walking in appalling conditions at the end of day two and a section of overgrown path and urban sections today this has been an enjoyable trip.  Along the way the route has been clearly waymarked.

To follow my walk you will need Ordnance Survey Explorer OS Explorer Leisure OL3 – Meon Valley

You can view this 18 mile walk on OS Maps and download the GPX File Here

17th July 2024

© Two Dogs and an Awning (2024)

All information on this site is provided free of charge and in good faith and no liability is accepted in respect of damage, loss or injury which might result from it.  To the best of my knowledge the routes are entirely on public rights of way or within areas that are open for public access.
Walking can be hazardous and is done entirely at your own risk.  It is your responsibility to check your route and navigate using a map and compass.

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