A few weeks ago Lynnie and I decided it was time to fit in another trip in the caravan. Most years we plan our travel for the following year during the winter, but this year for various reasons we have tended to leave it fairly late before we book anything. After identifying a slot in the diary the challenge was to agree on a location. After my recent trip to the Shropshire / Herefordshire border where I encountered numerous overgrown or blocked footpaths my main criteria was to head somewhere with good walking.
Our chosen location was the Norfolk/Suffolk border and despite being last minute we managed to secure pitches on two CL’s, the first of which is Mill Farm CL at Hengrave near Bury St Edmunds. This is our first stay at this CL and access is very easy and we are soon pitched up on this attractive site with the pitches set in a wildflower meadow. We take an evening walk around the paths on the farm and then sit down to plan our walking for the next couple of days.
It is a cracking morning and we decide to spend time on the site catching up with a few things. It is a lovely spot to sit with the laptop looking out at the view. This site must have been stunning in late spring.
It is mid afternoon before we are ready to head out. We leave Mill Farm through the yard to join Mill Road where we turn right.
The lane leads to a bridge over the River Lark. At this point there are the remnants of a former lock. Apparently the river was first used as a navigation by the Romans. In 1698 the River Lark Act 1698 was passed and this facilitated making the Lark navigable from Bury St Edmunds to Mildenhall.
After crossing the river we turn right and walk south with the river to our right. After the 1698 Act Henry Ashley was given authority to improve the 13-mile stretch from Mildenhall to Bury St Edmunds. He built 14 staunches and 11 locks.
After Ashley’s death there was a dispute about ownership of the navigation. In 1742 the Master of the Rolls determined that ownership was with Joshua and Joanna Palmer, however, they struggled to make a profit. By 1781 ownership has passed to their son Ashley Palmer and he started to make a profit. In 1790 there were plans for a 31-mile link from Bury St Edmunds to the River Stour at Minsley. John Rennie the civil engineer surveyed the route which would have included a 2,240 yard tunnel, the costs proved prohibitive and the link was never built.
The Railway and Canal Traffic Act 1888 authorised the River Lark and River Arun in East Sussex to be abandoned as navigations. However, in 1890 it was purchased by the Eastern Counties Navigation and Transport company Ltd and they renovated and reopened the stretch from Lee Brook to Bury St Edmunds. Commercial use of the river ended in 1928.
We have followed the path besides the river to Ducks Lock, here we cross and continue with the river on our left. Away to our left behind the wall of Fornham Hall is the tower of the ruined St Genevieve church. The 14th century church was accidentally burnt down, there are conflicting reports as to the actual date of the fire with it either being 17th May 1775 or 24th June 1782. Apparently the cause of the fire was a man shooting at Jackdaws in the steeple.
In a field to our right we spot a World War II pill box, these would have formed part of the defence of Bury St Edmunds which due to its strategic importance being a key road and railway was designated as a “Town of last defence”. Detailed plans were developed to protect the town in the event of an invasion by German Troops.
Crossing a road we pass the remains of a lock and continue on the route of the St Edmund Way, we joined this 80-mile long distance path when we started walking besides the river at Hengrave and will follow it into Bury St Edmunds. The whole route runs from Brandon in Suffolk to Maningtree in Essex.
The path now goes across the Suffolk Golf Course which is part of the All Saints Hotel complex.
As we approach Bury St Edmunds the St Edmunds Way joins the A1101 and we turn left to walk into the town. This main road passes the Hospital of St Saviours. It was founded in 1184 by Abbot Samson of St Edmunds Abbey. This hospital offered care and hospitality to visiting pilgrims.
Heading into the town centre we have a wander around and then head to the Beerhouse on Tayfen Street for a drink before returning.
This pub is the brewery tap for the Brewshed Brewery and serves a fine selection of real ales. Originally they were brewed in a shed in the car park, this has now been converted into a Taco takeaway. The pub doesn’t serve food but they welcome folk eating tacos in the bar. Apparently on the evenings when tacos are not served they don’t mind people eating takeaways in the pub. The beer and tacos are excellent and are well worth sampling.
Refreshed we head back out of the town along the A1101 and follow the pavement until we reach Fornham All Saints, here we have the option of turning right and picking up the St Edmunds Way beside the river or continuing along the roadside. It is dark so we don’t fancy the river path and decide to walk beside the road. It does not have a pavement and there are opportunities to step onto the verge. We have torches and can see the headlights of advancing cars so can get off the road but I would not want to do this section in daylight. (The GPX file and map for this walk show the route back via the river path)
Our little wander into Bury St Edmunds has covered just over nine mile, for those not wanting to walk back from the pub there is always the option of getting a taxi.
To follow my walk you will need Ordnance Survey Explorer 211 – Bury St Edmunds & Stowmarket
You can view this 9 mile walk on OS Maps and download the GPX File Here
30th August 2024
© Two Dogs and an Awning (2024)
All information on this site is provided free of charge and in good faith and no liability is accepted in respect of damage, loss or injury which might result from it. To the best of my knowledge the routes are entirely on public rights of way or within areas that are open for public access.
Walking can be hazardous and is done entirely at your own risk. It is your responsibility to check your route and navigate using a map and compass.